Watches & Wonders 2025 wrapped in Geneva last month, bringing together the biggest names in horology for a showcase of new releases. With 60 brands exhibiting - including Rolex, Tudor, Cartier and, for the first time, Bvlgari - the fair offered a first look at this year’s standout launches.
While technical innovation and sleek updates were on display, it was jewellery-inspired design that stole the spotlight. Think precious materials, concealed dials and a treasure trove of gem-set creations. From bangles to pendant-like designs, these were timepieces made to glimmer. Here, we round up the most striking jewellery watches from the fair.
Bvlgari’s signature serpent has been reimagined as a sculptural white gold bangle in the new Serpenti Aeterna timepiece. Encrusted with 658 round brilliant-cut diamonds, it features a pavé-set dial with a further 107 tiny white diamonds, with green-lacquered hands for a flash of colour.
Cartier gives its Panthère watch a sparkling update for 2025. This small yellow gold model sticks to the classic formula - silvered dial, blued steel hands and that unmistakable brick-link bracelet - but adds diamonds to the bezel and bracelet links for extra shine.
Part pendant, part secret watch, Chanel’s Lion of Mademoiselle features a sculpted yellow gold lion perched on a rock crystal dome, edged in black lacquer and set with diamonds. The dial is hidden inside the crystal, which hangs from a diamond-set chain and doubles as a piece of jewellery.
Van Cleef & Arpels gives its 1935 Cadenas watch a bejewelled update. The design turns a padlock into a glittering statement, set with 1,486 diamonds and 14 sapphires. A pavé-set white gold dial with yellow gold hands completes the design, while the snow-set stones dial up the shine.
Hermès puts a twist on timekeeping with the Maillon Libre brooch. Made from rose gold, it’s set with a central terracotta tourmaline and brilliant-cut diamonds, with a small dial barely visible at first glance. It can also be worn as a brooch or pendant - it’s a watch, just not as you know it.
Rolex adds a pop of pastel to its Oyster Perpetual line with a new matte lavender dial on a 28mm model. It’s a softer look for the brand, swapping high-shine for a smooth, muted finish. Paired with the classic Oyster bracelet, it’s an easy, everyday way to wear a bit of colour.
Piaget goes big on colour with this high jewellery watch. Crafted in rose gold, it’s set with yellow sapphires, diamonds, cornaline and ruby root beads. The ruby root dial is framed in diamonds and set on a burgundy satin strap. It’s also designed to be worn as a necklace for pure Piaget playfulness.
Tudor’s Black Bay 58 gets a jewellery-inspired twist with this new burgundy edition. The sun-brushed dial and matching bezel bring a warm, almost metallic sheen to the 39mm steel case. Paired with a five-link bracelet, it leans into colour, giving this classic diver a more dressed-up look.
